Big in Japan: TOKYO

Oh where to start? I’m currently on the bullet train to Kyoto and I just don’t know how to find words to describe how freaking incredible Japan is. The people, the food, the shopping, argh! But first I should start with my first destination: Tokyo.

Shibuya at night

Right, I should just put it out there that I have a long-standing obsession with Tokyo so if my post is dribbling with positive adjectives that’s why. Another thing to take note of is that I am travelling with my aunt and several of her friends so this will not be incredibly helpful to those travelling on a budget (although I somewhat am, so I’ll label budget traveller advice with a ** so you guys can filter out what is useful and what not).

We spent only 2 days in Tokyo, which is definitely too short a time to explore the city properly and we also spent the majority of the time on the hunt for cherry blossoms. They only bloom around this time of year for a period of around 2 weeks before they disappear again.

Cherry blossoms (Sakura) in bloom!

Asakusa also known as 'old Tokyo'

We took a river cruise across Tokyo that ended in Asakusa, also known as ‘old Tokyo’. It’s a famous area for viewing the Sakura and when they are in bloom the locals come out with their picnic mats, some food, and drinks, and gather with friends under the trees. It’s absolutely beautiful and a must if you are travelling with friends. Pretty sure it’s not a big dent in the finance department either. **

Locals picnic under the cherry blossom trees in Asakusa

Asakusa, where old meets new

If you walk further down from the underground station you will reach a famous shrine surrounded by cherry blossoms. It’s very crowded and there are weird guys in hot pants asking you if you want a ride on this odd looking thing. To view the sakura in a less crowded area you should go behind the Ana Hotel in Asakusa, on Izumi Street. It’s a secret our guide confessed to us so keep it on the down low yeah? ;)

The weird guy in hot pants smiling for the camera

Omgzzzz look! No tourists!

Asides from hunting down places to see the sakura, we spent most of our time in Tokyo eating. I think I could eat Japanese food for the rest of my life and be really happy. For reals.

For a cheap meal alternative, which I usually did for breakfast, I would just walk down the street to the nearest 7/11, Lawsons, or Family Mart and get some food there. You can get a piece of onigiri for around 130 Yen, a yakitori skewer for 100 Yen, and a bun for around 200 Yen. Cheap stuff. There are bigger meals there as well that are available for 400+ Yen. **

You can also save money by avoiding big restaurants and eating at the little holes in the wall instead. These are smaller restaurants that are kind of 'fast food' joints. Not the kind of fast food joints we are used to but taking the literal meaning that they serve nutritious Japanese food, well, really fast. These usually entail tempura with rice, or rice bowls (known as a don) or ramen. Each meal costs around 500 Yen and the tempura place we ate in Meguro offered us free green tea J.  Keep a look out for chains like Yoshinoya which offer really cheap rice bowl meals that can cost as low as 400 Yen. **

This is actually a Yoshinoya in Osaka, but they're everywhere.

Chain restaurants, such as The Royal Host offer really good food but at slightly higher prices. A meal will cost around 1500 Yen and the portions are not very big. You can try a tonkatsu place, which will have prices in a similar range but larger portions. **

You cannot go to Tokyo without checking out Ginza. It’s the main shopping area of Tokyo and also the most expensive, but you can always window shop right? Anyway we went to the Mitsukoshi department store, which is, as expected, crazy expensive but what I went for was to look at the abnormally sized fruits in the basement. They’re not GMO (not that I have anything against GMO) but they are still so massive! One strawberry will probably be the size of your thumb or more and half the width of your palm. However these suckers will set you back 400 Yen a pop.

I of course had to make a trip down to Shibuya station so I could try and locate the statue of Hachiko for my sister. I couldn't locate the exact statue, because I could barely get through the hordes of people, but I managed to find some tribute to his memory. If you haven’t heard of Hachiko’s tragically beautiful story, read it here.

Tribute to Hachiko at Hachiko-guchi, Shibuya station

Shibuya is also the hip part of Tokyo and near to Harajuku, where the young Tokyoians dress up as anime characters on Sundays. Sadly we were off to Mt. Fuji on Sunday morning so we couldn’t see any of this.


Transport tip: It's probably common sense but if you want to save money, do not take a taxi on your own. Never. The fare almost gave me a heart attack. A 10-minute right could easily set you back 1200-1600 Yen (12-16 USD).

Shibuya

From the brief impression I got of Tokyo, I think of it as the New York of Asia – quirky people, modern, and so full of life! I hope I can return to Tokyo soon and explore some of the weird stuff – maid cafés, cuddle cafés and all of that jazz.

If there are any wanderlusters out there, interested in seeing the weird side of Tokyo as well, hit me up! Of course I’d still have to save an arm and a leg’s worth to afford it but where there’s a will, there’s a way. J

BRB - dancing with fire

Well Holly and I watched some half-dressed people dance with fire in Boracay. We had a jolly good time.

One of the dancers did an AWESOME rendition to the wickedly talented Adele Dazeem's "Let It Go". If you didn't get that reference you should see this right now. Of course I mean Idina Menzel.

Anyway enjoy the fire dance video!

Beijing Revisited: Lost in Translation

As my friend and I wandered around Beijing, we did see some hilarious translations gone wrong. I've uploaded some in this post for your enjoyment. :)

It's supposed to be a common saying in Chinese but sounds mega weird in English

Guess mountains look more like rails in China

They like to set up construction sites just to piss you off

Odd choice of vocabulary

This requires no words

Come on be civilised guys

Discrimination against speaking cellphones and thunderstorms

Good to see they can figure out their priorities even around infinite good scenery.

It's more fun in Negros.

*NOTE: This post will be pretty text heavy. Apologies for the lack of pictures.

This entry just serves as a kind of bonus to my entry about Silay since it's only a 25-minute drive to Bacolod, and only a 10-minute drive to Talisay.

Lacson Ruins in Talisay

Why would you go to either you ask?

Because it's more fun in Negros. No but seriously...

Like I said before, Silay is more low-key and has managed to escape the invasion of Starbucks and company. But should you crave a little bit of corporate America or just a few good places to shop you can get your fix at Talisay or Bacolod.

Ayala North in Talisay is a shopping mall, which I prefer to Robinson’s in Bacolod, because it is less crowded. It has a lot of nice boutique shops with some famous brands. The supermarket is incredible because it has pretty much everything under the sun that you could wish for. It even has almond butter!

There is a small promenade area that looks like a mini version of Fort Bonifacio’s Strip. There are several restaurants (don’t ever go to the Italian one or Bob’s, the service is terrible) and they have free Zumba classes in the evening.

If you are in the area you must must MUST go to Felicia’s for the chocolate cake and the Sans Rival. Sans Rival is so good that I ate so much of it last Christmas that I was sick… and I would still do it again. You will thank me for eternity for this tip trust me. Calea which is opposite Felicia’s also has a wonderful selection of cakes, but it’s their Mud Pie that outshines the rest.

A visit to Talisay should also include a stop at the Lacson Ruins. One of the best preserved ruins in the world, it was the home of a prestigious family that owned a sugarcane field. During WWII, the Americans set the house on fire to prevent the Japanese from using the house as their headquarters. Although the house burned for 3-days straight its cement skeleton remained as a reminder of the past.

Side entrance of the Lacson Ruins

Veranda of the Lacson Ruins

Bacolod has a lot more facilities, such as places to shop and nightlife. Head on down to Bacolod’s Art District at night for some cheap drinks in the hippest bars in town. For any fitness fanatics out there, Bacolod Crossfit is situated there so you can sign up for a trial workout if you dare.

One block down is a 24-hour spa called Spa Natura. It’s not bad at all. The massages are really good and very cheap.

But, the main reason why you should be going to Bacolod is to try the authentic Chicken inasal. If you have tried in places outside of Bacolod, I can pretty much assure you that’s not how it’s supposed to taste like. It’s a very specific blend of spices and it is the way that it is cooked that lends inasal its distinct but subtle taste.

You should go to Malaspina for the best. Chicken house used to be the top of the list but the quality went down as its popularity went up. Typical. However Malaspina is not a place with a nice ambiance. If you want something with a nicer ambiance and almost equally good taste you should go to Masskara Chicken Inasal... If not for the chicken, then at least for the following photo opp:

Posing with the Masskara masks at Masskara Chicken Inasal

For those of you who don't know what Chicken Inasal is, it's the local grilled chicken which tastes good. So so good.

Bacolod is also home to the famous Masskara festival. It takes place around every third weekend of October. Heard it’s loads of fun but you need to prep your livers for some heavy boozing.

There’s loads more Bacolod and Talisay have to offer but it’s easy to get around so you should discover them for yourself ;). I’m running behind on entries!

Silay City - A home away from home

It’s odd but I don’t actually feel like I’m really in the Philippines until the plane descends towards Silay City and you see sugarcane fields, patches of green and the grazing caribou. Though Manila embodies the vivaciousness of Filipino city life, and beaches like Boracay and Palawan boast the Philippines’ natural beauty, I don’t really feel that warm sense of welcoming until I’m in Silay.

Children playing around a memorial of the uprising against Spanish rule

Perhaps it is because of the humble nature of the city – how things have remained the same for years and how the same businesses that were open in the Marcos era are still open today. For me, Silay symbolises the Filipino life and mentality – it finds beauty in simplicity and while it is open to change and develops over time, it remains loyal to its roots.

Street art hidden amongst the bushes

I have been going back to Silay to visit my extended family every 2 years but have not until recently really fallen victim to its charm. I guess it’s perhaps because during this visit I could wander the streets alone rather than the usual hustle and bustle of family gatherings (try getting 50 people into one house!).

What you find is beautifully preserved colonial architecture, colourful houses, cars, and tricycles, and a range of eye-catching street art – all dotted between patches of tropical green fauna. It’s edgy without trying.

On top of the architecture, you can also get a taste of authentic Visayan food. El Ideal on Rizal St. has been open for nearly a Century and sells homemade Illonggo delicacies, either fresh from over the counter or pre-packaged so you can share them or bring them abroad. Definitely bring some Piaya, Butterscotch, Food for the Gods for your loved ones with a sweet tooth. El Ideal also serves some of the best Batchoy and Buko pie I can think of, so you can enjoy a merienda after your shopping.

Another delicacy is the Visayan Pili Nut. You can get Pili Nut treats in shops but the best ones need to be ordered from a family who makes them. My family turns to the Lacsons. If you’re interested in trying them out when you’re in town, let me know!

If you feel like a caffeine break, you should check out Café 1925 off Rizal Street on J. Pitong Ledesma Street. It’s a quaint little café that serves delicious little cupcakes. Want to try something more local? Order the calamansi cupcake. Calamansi looks like a miniature version of a lime and is served with a lot of our food. Café 1925 takes a fresh spin in taking calamansi (which I’ve usually only seen with savoury dishes) and serves it as a dessert. I’m hoping this may pave the way for calamansi panacotta, or calamansi parfait in the near future. Yum.

You can’t leave Silay without trying the seafood in Balaring. If you are feeling brave try the talaba which is raw oysters. The food is to die for, the portions are generous, and because it’s no tourist trap the prices are fair. Not to mention you have a nice view of the seaside.

Entrance to Café 1925

Having an iced mocha and a red velvet cupcake in Café 1925. Yum!

Silay also has a very rich history. You can take a peek into the lives of the sugar barons of Silay, in Balay Negrense, which was once owned by the Gaston family, one of the pioneers of sugarcane cultivation in that region of the Philippines. The house has now been converted to a museum, which when last I visited was free of charge. 

I can’t emphasise more how highly I think of the people and city of Silay. How I admire them for finding comfort and happiness in incredible food, their history, their faith, and most of all family. Their warmth reaches out to others and even coming in from another country you feel like an extension of the Silay City family.

Decorations in the Silay Plaza

Another piece of street art tucked in between two shrubberies

The community church

The Philippines, having been colonised by the USA for several years, is highly influenced by American culture, resulting in a rapid rise of American or American-like chains surfacing the Philippine streets (you can even find a Starbucks in Boracay… seriously). Just take a gander around Makati or Fort Bonifacio in Manila and the clean streets, the street names and skyscrapers do not differ much from New York City.

Silay City Hall

So if you want a closer look at everyday Filipino life, discover the rich history of Silay, and want to try things without having to worry about ‘local versus tourist’ prices, visit Silay City. It will feel like a home away from home.

BRB - I'm sunbathing

The last time I was in Boracay, I was only 11-years old and I remember my jaw dropping when I saw the white sand and the clear blue water. I had never seen anything like it before. My family and I were the only people on the beach almost all week and it was incredible how you could see schools of fish in the shallow water. This was a real plus because at the time, because my little sister still couldn't swim.

Boracay today is now a far cry from what it once was. Renowned for its wild nightlife, especially during Easter season, the schools of fish have now been replaced by hordes of tourists and island-hopping boats.

There isn’t much to Boracay apart from the chilled out vibe of the beaches, the parties, and the water sports, but since it’s transformed from a small beach paradise into a tourist hot spot I’ll give you guys on pros and cons and prices of transport, accommodation, food, and drinks and what is most definitely a ripoff.

Should I fly into Kalibo or Caticlan?

Caticlan is a LOT closer but it’s a really small airport and the carriers only allow check-in luggage up to 10kg. Flights into Kalibo are cheaper but you would have to sort out land transfers – a return door-to-door transfer with Southwest Tours with terminal and environmental fees included costs about 800 PHP each (around 10 USD). If you can avoid flying into Kalibo, I would. There is little price difference when taking into account land transfer fees plus the long commute would shorten the time you can spend soaking up the sun on the beach! Not to mention the land transfer itself is chaotic and stressful at best.

Where should I stay?

It all depends on your budget. Since hotels fill up quickly around this time of year (March till Labour Day is peak season), Holly and I only managed to get a family room in Jony’s Resort at Station 1. It’s a little pricey for what it actually has to offer but this was Holly’s first time in Boracay and so I thought it would be worth shelling out a little extra for a beachfront resort on White Beach. It is also a family-run resort and I feel happier supporting an establishment run by locals than one of those global hotel conglomerates. 

White Beach Station 1

The room was a good size with a TV, airconditioning, a fridge, and a clean functional bathroom and toilet (with complimentary toiletries yay!). I thought it was rubbish that in spite of the money we paid for the room, they don’t offer any complimentary water. They charge you 20 PHP for a small bottle if you take it out of the mini-fridge. I think it’s worth investing a trip to a sari-sari store and getting a 2L bottle or bigger. There is also a supermarket in D*Mall in Station 2 where you can get decently priced water.

Staying in Station 1 is more expensive because it is closest to the nicest part of the beach. I would not stay in Station 2 since it’s really crowded and incredibly noisy at night. On top of that access to the beach isn’t as good because loads of bangkas are docked there and you will get hassled by people all day trying to sell you a sunset ‘cruise’ or island hopping tour.

Some bangkas docked at Station 2

Station 3 is more quiet and laidback and there are quite a few nice hotels that have been built recently. For those on a budget there is a really nice hostel called The Treehouse which is what it is – a really big bamboo tree house. There are cheap drinks at their bar at night with good live music. Because Station 3 is a long walk away from the other two and the sand is no longer white, it’s a lot cheaper to stay there. If it’s your first time in Boracay, I would suggest spending a few nights in Station 1 just so you savour the beauty of White Beach, and then spend the rest of your stay in Station 3.

Where should I eat?

I have to start with singing praises about the restaurant at Jony’s Resort. Although the accommodation itself wasn’t spectacular, the resort’s restaurant Mayas goes above and beyond my expectations. First and foremost: location, location, location! There is nothing better than waking up in the morning and seeing the clear blue waters while having your morning coffee.

Our view of the beach at breakfast.

The resort also has several sunbeds situated right in front of the restaurant reserved for its hotel guests but it’s on a first come first serve basis. Holly and I are not exactly early risers but we befriended one of the hotel staff – Rey who was always kind enough to help us find two sunbeds and serve our tea and delicious cocktails there.

The food at Mayas is mouth-watering. Breakfast was one of the things Holly and I looked most forward to apart from Happy Hour. Their motif is Filipino-Mexican fusion, however, like the resort, the prices are steep compared to the rest of the island. Mains are from 400 PHP upwards, whereas you can easily get a decent meal for around the 200 PHP mark if you look around the island.

For you foodies out there you can get good seafood at D’Talipapa which is somewhere around the D*Mall area. Friends have also recommended Smoke, located towards the back of D*Mall near the main road. I’ve personally not tried it but locals have said the food is very good and reasonably priced. It’s also best to avoid eating and drinking (outside of happy hour) in Station 1 unless you intend to splurge a little.

I’ve also seen a LOT of tourists buying the buko shakes and buko juices at the beachfront stalls of Stations 1 and 2. Please don’t. It breaks my heart to see people being royally ripped off. They charge around 110 PHP but if you wander around the D*Mall area you can find stalls that sell it for around 30 PHP.  Sure, if you convert the difference to USD or GBP, it’s not much of a difference but it’s the principle innit.

Guess the conclusion is: want to splurge? Station 1. Want good local food for a reasonable price? Station 2.

Where should I drink?

Take advantage of happy hour. Seriously do. There is nothing like having good quality cocktails or a cheap bucket of beer while watching the sunset in Station 1. Happy hour is around 4pm-8pm, sometimes 9pm for most of the places in Station 1. Recommended places for some lush drinks are Two Seasons and Sur, although Holly and I kind of just picked out the best deals. Cocktails cost around 200 PHP and during happy hour it’s 2-4-1. 

Happy hour cocktails at Station 1

Station 2 has a lot more going on later in the evening so after happy hour is over you can head down there for some more drinks or to go clubbing in Epic, Wave House, or Summer Place. Entrance for Epic is 300 PHP inclusive of two drinks whereas Summer Place is about 100 PHP without drinks.

You can also lounge around in the outdoor areas of the bars in Station 2 and wait for the fire dancers to come out. It’s loads of fun but they do come over to your table a LOT asking for monetary contributions.

Firedancers yippee.

Want a little bit of weird? There’s the Hobbit House in D*Mall, which appears to just be a pub decorated with LOTR memorabilia but take a closer look you’ll see that all the waiters there are midgets… I kid you not. The drinks are good I guess, but to be honest I was a little distracted by the sign proclaiming they were the pub with “THE SHORTEST WAITERS IN THE WORLD.” Is this something to brag about? A lot of tourists find this place fun, but I couldn’t shake the feeling that the entire thing is a little politically incorrect.

Entrance to Spiderhouse

Last but not least there is The Spiderhouse in Diniwid beach. Holly will probably kill me for spreading the word about our little haven of harmony and awesome, but I just have to! No happy hour, but the venue is worth the money. Just hop on a tricycle and ask them to take you to Spiderhouse, Diniwid beach. It’s accessible through a little hole in a rock at the end of the beach and you climb up the stairs until you reach the bar. Just ask anyone for directions if you’re confused.

You can sunbathe on that wooden float at Spiderhouse

It’s a great place to watch the sunset and you can climb down the bamboo ladder to the water if you fancy a swim. There’s also a small wooden floaty thing you can sunbathe on.

Two downsides to Spiderhouse: as the sun sets it begins to fill up with some really weird people so go early. Secondly, the food kind of sucks so go elsewhere for dinner or just go with the Western food.

Anything else?

Like in Bali, there are ‘local’ prices and ‘foreigner’ prices, so haggle if you can. Sadly there is an abundance of spendthrift tourists on the island so prices may not go down a lot, especially for tours and water sports. Try haggling with them later in the day.

For those on a budget: when you are taking a tricycle make sure you ask for the ‘regular price’ and not the ‘special price’. A trip to Diniwid beach from Station 1 can cost 100 PHP with a special price and only 25 PHP with the regular price. The difference between the two fares is that the special one is a private transfer to your destination. With the regular fare, the tricycle driver will pick up people along the way who flag them down on the way to your destination.

Sunset at Diniwid Beach

Ok this may sound like a no-brainer, but seriously, wear SPF 50. The Filipino summer sun is a merciless fiend. My entire upper body got sunburned although I naturally have a darker skin colour, I slathered on SPF 30, religiously re-applied, and avoided the sun between noon to 2.30 PM. Wear SPF 50. You will burn.

So there you have it. These are my tips on what to do when you’re in Boracay. If you haven’t been, go soon. Boracay today is so different from what it was when I first saw it. Although the many establishments have made it more fun and accessible, it feels less like the Philippines and more like an arbitrary beach holiday and in spite of the Philippines’ efforts in eco tourism, I fear that in several years time the beauty of White Beach will be overrun with clubs, pubs, and whatnot and become another Patong Beach, Phuket.